Dear Portugal, we still love you

There is life after lockdown!

Especially in the Mediterranean, well Portugal to be more precise. The Portuguese are well and truly geared up to receive the tourism they so heavily rely on.

I’ve always thought of Portugal as that undiscovered restaurant that you are hesitant to share with others incase it balloons in popularity. Personal feelings aside, my Portuguese counterparts are eager to show how impressive their Country truly is.

Lately, it seems there is an air of nervousness about travelling anywhere, which has not been aided by British media and travel regulations. Portugal as always are waiting with (socially distanced) open arms for holiday makers. So to perhaps tempt you, here are some reasons to visit:

My dad always used to make a joke about the Dalai Lama ordering a pizza and it being one with everything. I feel the same about Portugal being a multi faceted holiday destination; you have a jaw dropping coastline as well as plenty of fly and flop beaches, bustling markets, vineyards galore, buzzing cities, UNESCO world heritage sites, culture, national parks, mountains, countryside, variety of cuisine, lakes, rivers and much much more.

 

PASTEIS DE NATA
Portuguese custard tarts

Find our recipe on on our Instagram

 

Portuguese happiness in its purest form. Sometimes I will amend a route just so I can head to Pasteis de Belem, where the recipe originated in 1837, brought, some say, through a secret underground corridor by monks in the kitchen of the magnificent, neighbouring Monastery of Jeronimos.

 

 

PRAIAS
Beaches

East Algarve

 

Having travelled a fair bit with my job over the years, I’m hard pushed to find beaches I adore more than in Portugal, from the east of the Algarve where you’ll find gentle seas and remote little islands to the more rugged landscapes of the West. If you travel north up the coast past beaches such as Odeceixe, a turquoise swirl of river running through it, you’ll reach the undisturbed white sands of Comporta and Costa de Caparica, where horse riding is encouraged and great beachside restaurants are plentiful. For surfers however, you’ll be wanting to head north of Lisbon to places like Santa Cruz and Nazare – where an impressive coastline frames local towns.

 

LUXO BARATO
Affordable Luxury

Portugal as well as being authentic and relatively untouristed, has a cheaper price tag than other European countries, and whilst it may not have the finesse of say Italy or Greece, they more than compensate for their shortfalls through culture and charm. You will be hard pressed to find many Starbucks or big chain restaurants. Luxury hotels are sensibly priced with many off the beaten track gems being an absolute steal – even in the summer months! This goes for the food and wine too, and I’m talking about the Michelin star suspects.

 

 

CULTURA
Culture

 Porto

~ Find a fado bar order a glass of port or bica pingado (aforementioned strong coffee) and listen, along with locals, to a singer performing traditional songs.

~ Explore the beauty that lies within their many churches and monasteries from the whitewashed churches of the south to Sao Francisco in Porto, where more than 450lb of gold encrusts the interior. Porto

~ Admire picture-perfect tiles or azulejos as the locals call them, which seem to flood many an instagram feed of any visitor to the country. In the south the colours are more warm reds, blue and white throughout the country and yellows, greens and blues in the Alentejo countryside region.

~ ARTisans, they live off the land and use materials such as cork to make anything from furniture to jewellery.

~ Cities; Porto is brimming with soul, old-world charm and gorgeous architecture (JK Rowling spent some time here sponging up some inspiration). Lisbon with its yellow trams, steep hills and buzzing nightlife. As well as lesser known cities such as Coimbra, which is bursting with culture and great eateries!

~ Festivals, Portuguese love a party! They are also a very proud country, and even last year for Dia do Portugal in June, they still lined the streets with bright decorations and feasting stands.

~ Football, their life blood. It’s a slim chance to find a public establishment that does not have a TV on showing football.

 

VINHO
Wine

The Alentejo

The wine is unapologetically fabulous. Anyone who has been to Portugal knows (or will soon learn) about the wonder of the Portuguese grape. With a good year-round climate and the influence of the Atlantic, the country is known to produce some of the best wines on the planet, and with them keeping a lot of its produce to themselves (unlike many others), you can be guaranteed its extensive quality and affordability. Each region of Portugal has its own distinct climate; the cooler temperatures and Atlantic breeze make the far north of Portugal (north of Porto/Braga region) ideal for producing the very popular ‘Vinho Verde’, whereas the daytime heat and cool nighttime temperatures in the middle of the countryside, as you head further south into the Alentejo region, are perfect for ripening the grapes for a beautifully smooth red (otherwise known as ‘Vinho Tinto’).

 

COMIDA
Food

Portuguese sardines are a must

Much like the wines, Portuguese olive oil is one of the country’s best-kept secrets, but once tasted it is never forgotten. I love some freshly baked pão caseiro with oil, a staple at most restaurants throughout the country, and if it’s on the menu order some Serra da Estrela cheese.
The Portuguese food scene has often been overlooked, however the country’s young chefs are bringing delicious twists to traditional dishes like cod and grilled sardines infused with locally foraged herbs and spices. A handful of the most successful big names such as Rui Paula and Jose Avillez have set the bar high for the others. Notable spots include Rui Paula’s DOP in Porto and DOC which sits on the River Douro. Belcanto and Cantinho do Avillez, all owned by Jose Avillez should be on your list of places to try in Lisbon.
When in the Algarve many like to flock to notorious beach spots such as Maria’s and 2Passos for their fresh fish and chilled rose, be sure to book however, especially in the summer!
As a bonafide foodie I tend to veer off the tourist path to local places with daily changing menus and opportunities to practice my broken Portuguese. My clients will always be given a full list of my regional favourites to dine at and dishes (for example the Francesinha in Porto – essentially a croque monsieur on steroids).

 

DORMIR
Sleep

Palácio Príncipe Real, Lisbon

An activity I’m not entirely convinced the Portuguese do (which may have something to do with their Schwarzenegger strength coffee), yet their country is full of enticing places to lay your head at night. The hotel scene in the 90s was either rustic bed and breakfasts or big hotel chains, now we’ve seen a rise in unique boutiques.
I don’t shy away from bigger hotel groups; in fact there is the gorgeous Six Senses in the Douro Valley that is much like others in the group, spa centric and a real hub of wellbeing. The location lends itself perfectly to the nature of the brand and it’s top of my list for some high end R&R in Portugal.
Most recently I’ve discovered boutique hotel Pálacio Príncipe Real in Lisbon, a city in need of what Gail and Miles (the owners) have brought to it. It has all the bells and whistles of a five star hotel yet without the stuffiness, the ethos here is enjoy the place as if it were your own. The interiors are timeless and classy, no corners have been cut here – your bedroom even comes with a SMEG fridge filled with little treats. Plus any hotel with freestanding bathtubs in their rooms wins my vote.

Outside the cities you have places like their countryside and wine region Alentejo, which is populated with relatively unheard of boutique hotels such as a firm favourite of mine – Herdade Malhadinha Nova. Owned and run by the Soares wine family you essentially feel like one of their amigos when you go to stay. A few of their bottles have labels designed by their grandchildren, which like the rest of the estate gives a real personal experience.

Six Senses Douro Valley

If you were to do a road trip, which I thoroughly recommend you could twin the above mentioned with a visit to Fazenda Nova Country House in the Algarve. Another, best kept secret, type place. The owner’s taste can be seen in the architecture of the former farmhouse, eclectic artwork and vinyl library. Another great find in the area is family friendly Vilamonte Farmhouse. You are also in close proximity to the gorgeous fishing town of Olhão where you wander the cobbled streets in the evening and get speed boats over to deserted islands during the day.

I could wax lyrical all day long about the accommodation in Portugal, or just the country in general, so please do get in touch with me if you want to know more.

 

Alas there you have it, Portugal, plan your travel now to experience it in all its glory.

 

We remain in complete support of taking Portugal off the UK’s red travel list. If you would like to read a much more accurate account of the situation over there, please read this article. The was written by top travel journalist Mary Lussiana who lives in the country.

Grape Escapes: Portugal

Wine lovers rejoice! First in the series of Grape Escapes we will be exploring Portugal, aka the motherland of delightfully tasteful and inexpensive vinho.

Have you ever wondered what makes the difference between a ‘Dao’ and a ‘Douro’? Or perhaps what exactly it is that gives ‘Vinho Verde’ it’s sparkle? There’s always time to find out and we’ll help.  As self-confessed wine experts and having ‘tried and tested’ top Portuguese vineyards, we are here to point you in the ‘wine’ direction of exploring a country that has so much to offer.

With a good year-round climate and the influence of the Atlantic, Portugal is known to produce some of the best wines on the planet, and with the country keeping a lot of its produce to itself (unlike many others), you can be guaranteed its extensive quality and affordability.

You won’t find a ‘screw-top’ in sight; not only is wine one of Portugal’s biggest commodities, but their bottles are stoppered with authentic and locally grown cork, which is one of their biggest exports; the corks naturally let in a small amount of air, which fuller red wines can benefit from. It oxidizes the tannins, which helps create a smoother finish, nutty aroma and an overall more drinkable wine.

Each region of Portugal has its own distinct climate; the cooler temperatures and Atlantic breeze make the far north of Portugal (north of Porto/Braga region) ideal for producing the very popular ‘Vinho Verde’, whereas the daytime heat and cool nighttime temperatures in the middle of the countryside, as you head further south into the Alentejo region, are perfect for ripening the grapes for a beautifully smooth red (otherwise known as ‘Vinho Tinto’).

The landscape and nature changes so much across the country, that to experience it and quite literally get a flavour for the country as a whole, travel from top to bottom or vice versa is a must!

Accommodation throughout the country can range from a renovated monastery or convent to a minimalist and eco-friendly beach house or a traditional farmhouse with a modern finish.  While much of your time is spent enjoying the surroundings and sampling local flavours and delicacies, the opportunities for activities such as golf & horse-riding are endless.

The ideal time of year to visit is in the September/October months, when temperatures are pleasantly warm, evenings are still long, the ‘summer crowds’ have thinned, and most importantly it is the Harvest season across the vineyards.

Of course no wines should be tasted without the accompaniment of a freshly baked sourdough loaf, or a variety of local artisan cheeses and smoked hams from surrounding farms.

 

With the perfect mix of beautiful historic architecture, beams of countryside and stunning coastlines & beaches, Portugal truly ‘has it all’.

Journey down the long and ‘wine’ding roads and discover the very best of what this beautiful country has to offer.  Get in touch with us for more information; [email protected]

Sáude!

*As ever with any our trips we take the stress out of planning, cost the same as going direct and we will give you our insider knowledge as well as making sure you are VIPd where ever you stay.

 

Suggested Route:

Braga – Porto – Douro Valley – Coimbra – Areias do Seixo – Lisbon – Comporta – Evora – Alentejo – Algarve

Suggested wineries by region:

Vinho Verde (north of Braga) – Palácio da Brejoeira + Solar de Merufe

Bairrada (near Coimbra) – Quinta Mata Fidalaga

Dão (near Coimbra) – Parador Casa da Insua

Porto – Taylor’s

Douro Valley – Esporão + Quinta do Vesuvio + Quinta de La Rosa + CARM

Lisbon/Tejo (Lisbon & Comporta) – Quinta do Monte d’Orio + Herdade de Comporta + Casal Sta. Maria

Alentejo (Alentejo) – Herdade de Malhadinha / Herdade dos Grous / Herdade de Freixo

Algarve – Morgado do Quintão + Quinta Barranco Longo + Arvard

 

Suggested places to Stay:

Braga – Torre de Gomariz Wine & Spa Hotel

Porto – The Yeatman + Rosa et al townhouse + The Rebello

Douro Region – Six senses Douro Valley + Douro41 + Valverde

Coimbra – Quinta das Lágrimas

Lisbon/Terras Novas – Areias do Seixo + Casa Romana Vini

Lisbon city centre – Palácio Príncipe Real + Torel Palace + Sublime Lisboa

Setubal – Casa Palmela

Comporta – Sublime Comporta  + Quinta da Comporta

Aljezur – Craveiral Farmhouse

Évora – Convento Espinheiro + São Lourenço do Barrocal + Da Licença

South Alentejo – Herdade Malhadinha Nova

West Algarve – Praia do Canal

East Algarve – Casas da Quinta da Cima + Vilamonte Farmhouse